Solstice restaurant and lounge

by Dewey Hammond

This originally appeared in the June 2006 issue of Karma magazine.

Solstice restaurant and lounge
The live-jazz and Ethiopian lounge formerly occupying the corner of Divisadero and California in San Francisco offered a refreshing cultural respite from the neighborhood's primarily vanilla surroundings, so skepticism was a natural reaction to Solstice, the cookie-cutter restaurant and lounge replacement at this upscale Pacific Heights address. Does the world really need another bevy of cute girls serving food and drink in an atmosphere that's unremarkable at best? Perhaps. Regardless, one should never judge halibut ceviche by its cover, especially when your editor's footing the bill.

Marinated in a jalapeno-lemon vinaigrette and coupled with organic mangoes, the raw-fish plate quickly dismissed nostalgia. The tempura-battered fish tacos arrived perfectly crisp, and the grilled shrimp skewers were equally tender. The beer selection was decent, but the cocktails were haphazard in design (although the freshly shaved coconut on the Cougar was a nice touch). With the exception of the grilled asparagus, which was overdone and buried beneath a clumpy roasted-ricotta salata, the small plates mostly hit the mark. The hearty gorgonzola mac-n-cheese dusted with toasted walnuts and Granny Smith apples was a favorite. For dessert, the flourless chocolate cake was uninspired, and patrons would be wise to stick with the cream-and-caramel bread pudding.

Party like an emperor

by Dewey Hammond

Originally commissioned in 2003 by Esquire magazine, this article was later published in nightlife magazine Karma, where it received a full-page spread in its June 2006 issue.

Party like an emperor
Soju is by far the world’s most popular liquor—annual global sales top whiskey, vodka and rum combined—but smart money says you’ve never even heard of it. Dating back to the 13th century, this form of sake has long been a staple in East Asia, but only recently has it started to turn heads stateside. Tori Kai, the Japanese emperor’s soju of choice, can now be found at Los Angeles’s hottest nightspots, including White Lotus, where owner Chris Breed rubs shoulders with Hugh Hefner and Britney Spears while sipping soju with Ewan McGregor and Nic Cage.

Twice as strong as wine and half as potent as your standard 80-proof sauce, soju has a smooth finish, fruity aroma and remarkable transparency—all of which translate to versatility. Enjoy it chilled or substitute it for vodka as a happy hour mixer. Fans believe that the presence of asparagines, a unique amino acid, may even reduce the symptoms of a hangover.

Thanks to extensive lobbying by restaurant owners, soju can be served with only a beer and wine license in culturally progressive states such as California and New York. The ability to dish out martinis without absorbing the crippling costs of a full liquor license does wonders for an establishment’s bottom line, and the loophole keeps many struggling restaurateurs and bar owners in the black. “Soju’s paying my bills,” says Jenn Cannella, owner of Habana Cuba, one of the country’s premiere Spanish restaurants. And that’s as good a reason as any to raise a toast.